Some consider it conventional wisdom: Never cook for a chef.
Yes, it can be intimidating. It can produce a nightmarish
fear your food won’t measure up -- much like the time I served a homebrewed
beer to a dear friend and professional brewer, who kindly noted I must have
intended the off-flavor he detected.
But hey, I figure, who would appreciate a night off from
cooking more than someone who spends most days and nights cooking for others?
So I took the plunge recently, drawing inspiration from a
trip to Spain taken this summer by the chef and his wife, who runs the front of
the house at their restaurant. I had made this dish, Boles de Picolat, before
to serve at parties and thought it might be a nice tapas-style dish for this
couple to enjoy on an off-day.
Boles de Picolat literally means “balls of ground meat,”
according to Catalan food expert Colman Andrews. It is a mashup – or rollup, if
you will -- of culinary influences from the autonomous Catalonia region of
Spain and the French Languedoc-Roussillon region that abuts it, according to
the recipe I used from Andrews’ great 1988 cookbook, “Catalan Cuisine.”
Every culture that eats meat, it seems, has some form of
meatball in its repertoire. Often, the variations reflect the history of that culture.
These Catalan meatballs use olives (introduced by the Phoenicians) and cinnamon
(one of the lucrative spices that motivated Christopher Columbus to sail the
ocean blue from Spain). The recipe obviously is post-Columbian because of the
inclusion of New World foods like chile pepper and tomato.
The recipe calls for botifarra, a simply seasoned white pork
sausage. But I use the house-made garlic pork sausage at Whole Foods, mixing
four parts of the sausage with one part ground beef, then adding garlic, salt
and pepper with egg to bind it. After rolling the mix into small meatballs, an
inch round or so, and sprinkling them with flour, I brown them with some olive
oil in an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven.
After the meatballs are done, the sauce is made by cooking a
generous amount of onion in the same oil, scraping up the browned bits, but
cooking them slowly enough to keep the onions translucent without caramelizing.
Into the pot goes a little more flour, some chopped
tomatoes, sweet pepper (roasted and peeled red bell pepper), cinnamon (1.5
Tbsp. per 2 pounds of meat), smoked Spanish paprika and green olives (figure
1.5 cups per 2 pounds of meat; Andrews insists they be freshly-pitted). Next goes
the browned meatballs and enough water to cover them. It should simmer, happily,
for about an hour.
The meatballs are extra flavorful from the sausage and the
umami caused by browning them. The olives contribute a Mediterranean glow. But
it’s that dry pungency from the cinnamon that makes people say “Wow” when they
try a rendition of Andrews’ Boles de Picolat.
My hard-working restaurateur friends told me later they
loved the meatballs. They especially appreciated the gesture and how it provided
them a little more rest and relaxation to go with the gustatory pleasure.
Taking a culinary risk like that can be nerve-wracking. But
the payoff for success is both immensely satisfying and confidence-building.
And frankly, it doesn’t even matter if you bomb. No one
worth knowing would be anything but appreciative for your truly heartfelt gesture.
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